The North Shore
That scene from blue crush where they’re all riding in anne-marie’s car, driving by pipe, its firing, they’re stoked, hair flying, hands drumming the car body in anticipation, could you be loved is the soundtrack to that moment. the same marley tune came cruising through the stereo on one of these past winter days and it was like i was in their car, seeing the white froth all the way from the pineapple fields, the same stoke. the drive north is storied. the moment when you can see the ocean after miles of dirt and pineapple fields fills most with the same feeling you get when you hear “ladies and gentlemen, we will now begin our final descent into honolulu international airport” after being away from these shores for months on end. this is hawaii: shave ice, leaving the house with nothing on except a bikini or boardshorts, pedestrians carry surfboards not shopping bags and one lane roads get you where you need to go. watching airs and barrel rides through camera lenses we know that the most of us probably ever won’t be out there in this lifetime but being there, on the sand, we somehow could share in their bliss. not all waves are created equal, this winter has shown me that. we can begin to understand why da boiz wake up at 5 to drive an hour up north, perfection is restless, waves do not simply come and go.
Here are some images from this past winter 2014-2015, captured by yours truly and Cole Yamane. These are all 35mm. Enjoy!